When it comes to priming our models, there is a ton of information out there and so many different options to choose from. Some people just keep it simple and use the Games Workshop brand of primer, as I would say this is the one that is marketed as the best, but boy do we pay for that marketing. Something like primer shouldn’t be such a confusing subject, and perhaps when it comes to miniature painting, this is a problem that is inherent to painting our minis. There are two simple places to start: you have the good old rattle can; this is probably the first thing you thought of when you started reading about primers. Then the other kind is primer that comes in bottles like paint; I have always referred to this as paint-on primer since, when I learned about it in the early 2000s, we were taught to paint it on, as airbrushes were available, just more expensive and somewhat limited in where you could get them due to Amazon not being what it is now. The paint-on primer takes a little longer to get your models ready, but every time you primed them, you would get the same result, unlike rattle cans where the weather can affect when you can prime.

If you’re like me and prefer to use the rattle can, but don’t want to pay for all that extra marketing baggage, you probably have found yourself at stores wondering what all the different rattle cans do. I am here to help and straighten this out once and for all; we will use science and pictures to prove to you that we can just go buy a can of normal primer and get our models ready on the battlefield. First and foremost, you have to pay the most attention to the label on that can; if it says anywhere on that can that it is a primer and paint can, you need to just put it back. With the paint in the can with the primer, you have more stuff that needs to be propelled out by the can; this will greatly increase your chance of applying true grit to your models. If that happens, you might as well just enjoy the newly textured models you have or possibly strip the primer off. This happens from the paint molecules catching the moisture bubbles in the air, and when everything dries, it leaves you with a grainy surface that would remind Anakin about his favorite texture; force choke is questionable. This is something that can happen with any and all primers, even ones that have paid millions of dollars to convince you that it won’t; if the conditions are right, it’s going to happen. So just make sure you pay attention to the weather, and after you prime them, bring them inside so they can cure in a consistent temperature out of the sun.

Now if you achieved a nice even coat with your rattle can primer that happens to say paint on it too, and you’re thinking to yourself what do I know? Now is where the real fun begins; if your paint is too thin, then it will separate on the miniature as if it were a gloss primer. You can double-check that it is a matte, and even change paints, and it will still not act right. This took me a long time to figure out, but I finally got it: when the paint and primer dry together, it does two things: the primer will stick to the plastic, and the paint will stick to the primer. Therefore, you have a layer of paint over a layer of primer, and this is going to be rattle can paint, so the paint flakes are probably massive compared to your miniature paint flakes, so the paints will not work together. If you do find yourself in this predicament, then you have two options: the first one is to go to the hardware store and make sure you get the primer can that only says primer, and you can lightly reprime your model. This will allow your miniature paint to stick to the model just like you remembered it did. Or you can use a paint that is thicker out of a bottle; I prefer Vallejo paints since they usually will stick and hold, allowing me to go back with thinner layers that don’t dance around on the model.

The most efficient way is to airbrush your primer on the model in a controlled booth; however, we all don’t have access to an airbrush. I believe that if you are planning on being in the hobby for a while, an airbrush is a really good investment because you will be able to knock out batches of models quickly and at any time of the year. There is a bit of a learning curve, and an article will come eventually, but the best advice I can give is to be disciplined about cleaning after each session. One last thing about airbrushing your primer on: after you are done painting your models, it is advised that you seal your models with a clear coat of some kind, as the primer material from the bottle does not have the same strength as the rattle can primer, and you are more likely to chip paint from that primer.